HOW DID YOU GET HERE? FEATURING JESS GEBHART OF DENIM AND LIFESTYLE BRAND I AND ME
Jess Gebhart spent her younger years sticking pages of Dazed & Confused magazine to her bedroom walls, only to work with the magazine as part of her first steps into the fashion world years later. Having studied Graphic Design at University and going on to work in the denim department of Topshop for six years, Jess then started her own denim and lifestyle brand I AND ME. Founded in 2015, I AND ME is well-known and highly regarded within the fashion world as a brand that is conscious, forward thinking and innovative. Pioneering a season-less and trend-less approach, Jess places emphasis on sourcing sustainable fabrics and releasing collections in stories, reflecting the ‘slow made’ philosophy of the brand. At a time when this approach wasn’t as commonplace as it is today, I AND ME have come to set their own trend in denim design and product development during the last five years. With amazing fabrics and beautiful finishing, we’re always excited to see the brand’s collections. Read on to find out more about I AND ME and what Jess likes for breakfast!
Name: Jessica Gebhart
Occupation: Founder & Creative Director of I AND ME, Consultant and Mentor.
Location: London
IG Handle: @_iandme_
Website: www.i-and-me.com
Who is Jess Gebhart? (Please give a summary of who you are and what you do? Eg. What did you study and where? Where did you grow up? About you & your job?)
JG: I am Jess, the Founder & Creative Director of the denim and lifestyle brand I AND ME. I studied a Graphic Design degree at the AIB in Bournemouth but I always knew I wanted to get into the fashion industry, so I moved up to London straight after uni and did a year of work experience at various fashion companies. This included PR at Miss Sixty, with the fashion team at Dazed & Confused magazine and buying at Topshop, where I was offered a full time position in the denim department. After more than six years at Topshop I left to launch my own denim brand I AND ME alongside a consultancy business specialising in product development and sourcing.
For those who don’t know, what is I AND ME?
JG: I AND ME is a unisex denim and lifestyle brand based in London. I founded the brand in 2015 with the vision of producing beautiful, premium quality fabrics made in key, wardrobe staples, all designed to love and last forever. We are built on a ‘Buy Less, Buy Better’ ethos with each collection designed around a seasonless and trendless model, so collections are released in stories rather than by the usual industry S/S and A/W seasonal calendar. Our mission is clear; to produce 'small runs, slowly made sustainably sourced’.
Tell us, have you both always been into fashion? And what is your earliest fashion memory?
JG: I have always loved fashion! I grew up in the countryside so the most poignant connections I had to fashion was buying The Face, Dazed & Confused and iD magazines every month. This exposure to fashion and culture shaped me into who I am today. I would rip out pages and stick them all over my bedroom wall and make my own collage books, so doing an internship at Dazed & Confused was like a dream come true!
What advice would you give to someone starting out on a similar career path and thinking about starting their own brand?
JG: Definitely get as much experience as you can. Work for other companies in as many relevant departments as possible. Make contacts, collaborate, keep energised to learn, stay humble and stay true to yourself.
What would you tell your younger self?
JG: Trust your gut!
If you weren’t working as a designer and running the brand, what would you be doing?
JG: I always wanted to be a vet when I was younger, so I would work with animals in some shape or form.
What is your favourite part of what you do?
JG: The product development, collection concepts and producing the look books. All of the stylistic and image based elements of the brand.
Describe your personal style?
JG: My personal style is very much built around the same ethos as the I AND ME brand. My wardrobe consists of key staples in a neutral palette and lots of denim!! I wear a lot of I AND ME (obvs!) and a lot of vintage too.
What was the last item of clothing you bought?
JG: I treated myself to a navy knitted vest from Margaret Howell - one of my favourite brands.
Tell us about your love for denim? What appeals to you about the fabric?
JG: I have always been a big denim fan, it’s always been a key fabric in my wardrobe. I love the stories that a denim garment can tell. A well made garment can last for years and years and be passed between many owners - there is no other fabric denim. I love working in the denim industry, the history is incredible and it’s full of geeks with the same love for the fabric!
What’s your favourite item of clothing in your closet?
JG: My favourite item of clothing that I own is an indigo antique painters duster jacket that I picked up in Osaka. It is the most beautiful natural indigo fabric that has aged incredibly it almost has a sheen to it now. It is still a really deep indigo colour even after all of these years of wear. I wish I knew more about who owned it before me.
Which of your own designs is your favourite to wear?
JG: Right now the Organic Selvedge Baggy Jeans and Patched Jacket from the new collection ‘ As Daydreams Go’ are on heavy rotation; cut in a dreamy green-cast 13oz right hand twill denim from Candiani.
Talk us through the offering of the brand and where it draws inspiration from?
JG: I have always been very inspired by traveling and that has shaped many of the I AND ME stories. I have been very fortunate to have travelled all over the world with my career, gaining inspiration from so many places. Stand out trips include the island of Naoshima in Japan that inspired our second collection 'One Thing Well’ and a road trip around New Mexico and Texas that shaped ‘Las Casas.’
Where are the collections produced and where does the fabric come from? You always seem to select really beautiful fabrics with wonderful textures.
JG: I source fabrics most commonly from Japan, Turkey and Italy, with the garment manufacturing taking place in Turkey, Italy or the UK. I love fabric so this really drives the product development. Sourcing the right fabrics with the best sustainable credentials takes time. I am always looking for unique denim casts and colours as well as authentic fabric manufacturing processes and technologies. I get so excited when I find a new fabric that I can’t wait to sample.
There is a strong seasonless and unisex vibe to the brand - tell us more about this approach? And do you think we’re seeing an increase of this within the fashion industry?
JG: When I started forming the brand concept I didn’t have a clear indication of which direction it would go. As the first clothes range was developed it didn’t feel like it was womenswear or menswear and I soon settled on a unisex model. I loved the idea of dressing myself, my husband, my girl friends and my guy friends. I have always bought menswear clothes myself and this model felt very relevant for the kind of product that I AND ME was offering; key staples that can work in any wardrobe. I am definitely seeing more and more seasonless and unisex product in the industry. The fashion calendar has had a detrimental effect on global warming so this change is so so needed. I am very happy to have been a voice for change since founding I AND ME.
What are the most important things you've learned from your journey so far with the brand?
JG: To follow my gut. When I launched I AND ME five years ago, the ‘seasonless’ model was barely a thing. The stores and press couldn’t get their head around it. I felt that this kind of business model was right for my brand, right for the fashion industry and most definitely for the environment. It’s great - now we are seeing big shifts in the industry.
How has the brand been affected by COVID-19? has production been limited or stopped completely? Are you able to keep working?
JG: The pandemic has hit the brand quite hard. We were due to launch the latest collection in April so production grinded to a very swift halt. We have had to cut back on units and drop or postpone some styles. We feel very fortunate that we have been able to launch anything at all and we are so grateful for the support from our suppliers, stockists and customers!
You recently released your latest collection ‘As Daydreams Go’. What was the approach to this collection and how has it been received so far? Where is the best place for us to check it out?
JG: The launch of ’As Daydreams Go’ has had to be very flexible because of COVID-19. Instead of launching everything together, we have split the collection into four fabric stories and released each one as it’s own drop. This has been well received because our customers understand we are a slow fashion brand and we take our time to release collections when they are ready. One of the denim stories left to drop is the plant dyed stripe selvedge denim from India. It’s a fabric that has been a long time coming. It has taken 3-4 months just to dye and weave - it’s really a very special fabric. I am so excited to launch the styles into the world, hopefully in the not too distant future. You can shop the collection now, online at www.i-and-me.com and at our stockists.
“ I have always been a big denim fan, it’s always been a key fabric in my wardrobe. I love the stories that a denim garment can tell. A well made garment can last for years and years and pass between many owners - there is no other fabric like denim.”
JESS GEBHART
What does sustainability mean to you and how do you approach this as a brand?
JG: Sustainability is about looking after the environment, people and animals. It’s important as a brand to question our every move. I am always looking to improve our sustainable credentials and lower our footprint at every turn. This means partnering with the right mills and manufacturers who are investing in advances and new technologies that can improve I AND ME’s impact too. This applies for all elements of the brand, from our packaging to our mode of transport. Our motto 'small runs, slowly made, sustainably sourced' is a great reminder to ourselves and our customers.
What can the wider fashion world do to tackle issues of environmental harm and sustainability going forward? What can we do better?
JG: Education is key. We all need to stay aware of what is going on in our lives and across the globe. Understanding how garments are made, who is making them and what they are made of. Brands need to be transparent and share information so customers can learn and make informed choices. Ultimately we need more from governments to implement strict guidelines so businesses have to meet targets to reduce their footprint and increase recycling. We should look at sustainability as an important factor in every part of our lives, from how we travel, what food we consume, to where we choose to shop.
On a personal level, how have you found the last few months? Any takeaways or learnings?
JG: To stay true to the brand! We work on a seasonless, trendless model so we can remain flexible and work around any obstacles when they arise. There is nothing more important than people’s health so we would never put pressure on our supply chain to continue working through such dangerous times. On a personal level, I have just tried to go with the flow. It’s been a really testing year for us all, anxieties have been high so I have just tried to remain calm.
Where is the first place you’d like to fly to when we're able to travel more freely?
JG: Tokyo! Or LA for the sunshine and the Rose Bowl!
You have a free day to do anything, what would you do?
JG: Get all my friends and family in the same place at once. I miss that!
Who should we be following on Instagram right now?
JG: @the_happy_broadcast - for a much needed dose of ‘anxiety free news.’
Coffee or tea?
JG: Coffee!
Chocolate or crisps?
JG: Crisps!
Where is your favourite city?
JG: Tokyo.
What’s your London secret? Any great spots you can share?
JG: Native & Co in Notting Hill - for Japanese homeware and kitchenware. The best place for gifts.
What are your 3 favourite stores? (can be anywhere and anything!)
JG: Epitome of Edinburgh has the best selection of womenswear (...and it’s one of our new stockists), J’Antquies in Tokyo - any denim / vintage fans absolute dream source of inspo and Donlon Books on Broadway Market, London (my go to bookstore for reference and research, they have THE best selection and I always discover so much in there).
If you could buy any building and live there, where would it be?
JG: The Tadao Ando buildings on Noashima. We luckily stayed there on honeymoon and I would have happily stayed forever.
What’s the first thing you do when you wake up?
JG: Have breakfast with my husband and daughter.
Breakfast of champions?
JG: Hvuevos Rancheros
Tell us one thing people might not know about you?
JG: I was and still am a huge fan of The Spice Girls.
What does the future hold for the brand? (do you have any exciting plans or releases coming up?)
JG: We are working on a few new product offerings right now and hoping to launch them at some point next year.