HOW DID YOU GET HERE? FEATURING IAN BERRY, THE ARTIST!
British born artist Ian Berry has been creating a buzz in the denim world for several years with his beautiful art, stunning installations and engaging exhibitions. Ian’s work has been seen everywhere from leading galleries all over the world to top department stores like Selfridges in London, reflecting the relevance and appeal of his art. I have been drawn to both Ian & his work since meeting in New York in 2016; not only did we share a passion for the art of David Hockney but he worked in a material I am obviously very fond of! Having been perfecting his techniques in the jean medium for over ten years, Ian tells us his story about how he got here.
Name: Ian Berry
Occupation: Artist
Location: East London, UK
IG Handle: @ianberry.art
Website: www.ianberry.art
Who is Ian Berry?
I'm Ian Berry. I'm an artist who makes his work from denim. Born in Huddersfield in the North of England, a town known for textiles, engineering, and of course a football team once known as the best in the world (I'm actually not joking).
I'm in my 15th year of working with denim but I can't say it was born out of being a big denimhead. I loved to wear denim but knew little about it when I started. For me it was about its mass appeal and the fact that anyone can wear it. When I first started with denim, I thought of my memories wearing the jeans - as it was my jeans that I used first. Then when people saw my art, I realised that many had a connection to denim. I'm portraying contemporary life with the material of our time - a material that most of us have and wear.
Tell us, were you always been interested in Art?
From a very young age I was known as the art one. But I also played soccer - I remember after football I'd do my art and create all kinds of things. I remember as a young teen going to see Hockney and Lowry shows in the North, as well as going on trips to London galleries with my family.
I ended up working in advertising, which for me has some of the most creative and original people on the planet working in it. I would do my own art on the side in my spare time. While I was titled an Art Director, my main purpose was to come up with ideas. And still I'm all about ideas.
How would you describe yourself? An artist, a multimedia artist, a designer? Or something else!
Artist…If you must, an artist who currently works with denim. I detest the term ‘denim artist’!
What advice would you give to someone starting out on a similar career path?
Be around people who understand what you are trying to achieve. Cut out the time wasters around you. If you want to be an artist then know where art is shown. If you want people to see it as art, it should be in galleries and museums on the whole. Yes there are some commercial things you can do, but still protect yourself as an artist.
What would you tell your younger self?
Do khaki instead.
If you weren’t an artist, what would you be?
Well, I used to be an art director coming up with the ideas of how to sell products. I was lucky to work on some big brands and work with some amazingly creative people. I've worked on Guinness, Talisker Whiskey, British Airways, Nissan, Persil and the the Royal Air Force. For me it's all about the big idea, but you tend to find now that it’s all about numbers and views via social media. For me social media is a tool, like print, radio and TV, not the ‘be all and end all’.
I also come from a family of teachers and I still try and do things within education from a young age to older students.
Who inspires you in the art world and beyond?
I'm inspired by artists that make art from different materials. I really admire the work of my friend Mark Evans, a welsh artist who etches out of leather. They’re large pieces, he is so skilled and my mind was blown when I saw them.
Another mate Max Zorn uses brown packing tape and backlights them, with differing layers of tape built up, so the light gets through differently to form really detailed works. Long time friend Kate Jenkins crochets amazing woolen installations that when all together is stellar. I could go on and on but I will mention another pal Christian Faur who uses crayons as well as other materials to build up images and Peter Combe who uses paint swatches, and this is before we get to Vik Muniz!
I'd prefer to celebrate another artists work than my own. It’s not easy to talk about yourself, is it?
‘Be around people who understand what you are trying to achieve. Cut out the time wasters around you.’
IAN BERRY ARTIST
What is your favourite part of what you do?
I've met some incredibly talented people over the years and just to spend time with them is a true pleasure. I've seen the world through my art and what's best is that you get to meet people who really show you a place.
To stand in front of my work and talk to people I feel as good as anyone, and it is incredible to get their reactions. I can go 18 months in the studio making a body of work, but to show a collection of work with people seeing it for the first time, can be really special.
For me the material I use is no longer special. I no longer want the press that says “look at what this is made of”. My work is beyond that. It's just my paint.
How long does it take to create one denim painting?
As I keep pushing the technique, it takes longer and longer. They take a long time but I want everything to be considered. Coming up with the concept and shooting all the work is a big part of the process. Yes, you can bang something in photoshop and let it tell you where to cut, but it doesn't have the same feeling of doing something by eye and making art. I can spend months on some larger ones to get it right.
Of course, one of my aims is to portray things in denim - I've done the shiny bar tops, the metallic reflective laundrettes, the tiled floors and the way water reacts to light. When I started I often overused parts of the denim to show that it was denim, think pockets, rivets etc. Now I use all the interesting parts of a pair of jeans, jackets or dresses, to hide that it is made from denim.
If you couldn’t work with denim as your medium, what would you choose?
Why, what you heard?
I often say I'm using the material of our time, to portray our contemporary life. If not denim, would it be plastic? I've done a lot of classes to educate kids as well as TV shows for children and at the end I often ask, “if you went home what do you have an abundance of that you could use?”. Plastic seems to be the biggest culprit and I am genuinely concerned by micro plastics. I always wondered whether I could bring leather into my work, but as mentioned, Mark is the king of that and I respect his place. And while artists can be inspired by other artists, they shouldn't cross the line.
What is your favourite piece of work that you have created?
I'd have a host of clients upset if I revealed that. Normally, it's the last one I've done, as you are always pushing to be better!
I know that you came to my Behind Closed Doors show in London. For me when the crowds had gone at the beginning, all the work hanging together was the most powerful show I had done. People found it quite emotional and many said they saw themselves in it. I know it was my most sombre and melancholic work but it did have a power. The gallery said that normally people come in and browse for 5 minutes but with this they stayed for five minutes on each piece. I think with the combination of my sisters poem based on the show it really resonated with many, which in many ways was the point.
Tell something about yourself nobody knows?
I was a grade four Olympic standard Hammer Thrower when I was younger and before an injury...How different life may have been!
Your work looks hugely time consuming and almost a labour of love. Without giving too much away, tell me about your process and how long it takes to create your work?
It is very much a labour of love. The biggest secret ingredient will always be me and my mind. The rest is just scissors, jeans and glue, working from all my own ideas and photography.
What made you choose denim as your textile medium?
I saw a left over pile of denim 15 year ago. I saw the shades. I liked denim and loved to wear it at that point, but beyond the main brands I knew so little about it. In some ways knowing so much about the industry has become distracting to my art, as it was never really about that. My art wasn't for the denim industry, but how the normal person saw it.
That said, I find many aspects of the industry fascinating. As someone interested in community I do find the denim head community a great thing and the passion that exists. At first I knew very little, but I have grown to admire, respect and love this material in a different way. There are many artists working in the denim industry - I think many people who work in laundries as well as craft jeans people have such a skill. It’s not just creative, but chemistry. I know when I started I'd often think of the people who made the jeans, like the sewers/machinists. I saw them as my co-artists.
Since an early age my favourite artist has been David Hockney and I know we share the same passion for his art! What’s your favourite Hockney piece?
I remember being very young going to Saltaire in Bradford and seeing his work. It was an incredibly dull Yorkshire day and the bright colours were so inspiring to me. Thinking of this man who was born not far from where I was from, to go and achieve all that he had, was incredible.
I've not told anyone this or showed the pictures as its private, but the day I took the photos of the Roosevelt Hotel in Hollywood, that evening I was swimming in his pool - yes - that pool. He is an amazing man and I am grateful to know him. It has been the greatest pleasure out of making my work. They won't make them like him in the future and our world won't allow it. It means the world to me that he likes my work and his support came during one of the hardest periods of my life. He is an inspiration in so many ways.
I love A Bigger Splash and A Closer Grand Canyon, I’ve often seen them in one of my favourite art museums. I also love his portraits - especially now that I know a few of the sitters. Portrait of an Artist (two figures) will always be a special memory, I'll probably only say why in twenty years time.
Even though he was named GQ’s best dressed man once, I don't think he has ever really worn jeans!
What or who is your dream collaboration?
It would be the above mentioned man David Hockney
What are some of your favourite fashion brands?
Those that respect artists and ideas. Those that are honest. Those that don't greenwash, but green action.
How many exhibitions have you created?
I'd have to look it up! It would likely be a lot less than you think. I mainly have solo shows and like many things that are a blessing, it can be a curse. I love to see all my work together and get some nice attention (and to sell some work!). But the problem is...That’s all of it. My London gallery has usually sold out when the doors open and while that sounds great, it means 18 months of work has all gone. Which leaves me with little or no inventory, so when I get invited to other things I have been unable to do them.
You’ve become an advocate for sustainable practices in denim through your artwork, using unwanted denim and off-cuts to create some stunning pieces. Where do you get your denim from?
When I started with denim I gave so little thought to it being sustainable. I think up-cycling may have started being a trendy word a few years after, but the word ‘sustainable’ wasn't used as much as it is now. I will try and advocate for sustainable practices as much as possible, but I am also interested in the sustainability of people as well as the planet.
My denim comes from many places, the first pairs were mine, then my friends and their friends. I would get some from charity shops, second hand and vintage stores. But I haven't bought anything for years as many brands send me their samples or seconds/damaged pieces, as well as some mills. I still open my studio door to find bags outside. And of course if i do someones portrait, I'll use their denim. Over the years I have been offered some pretty famous people's jeans, which are pieces of art in their own right!
We’ve seen more denim artists emerge in recent years, how does it feel to be the original but to see imitations?
Joseph Bouys used denim in some of his work, along with other fabrics. In Genoa there are some stunning, hundreds of years old, indigo art. Quilters have used denim materials in their works. When I started I did look to see if anything was out there and I didn't find anything which was similar to my work.
I don't mind people using denim and one of my greatest friends does, Juan Ma, who makes beautiful textured indigo art along with others like my good friend Twood who makes wood out of denim and makes beautiful items like a denim guitar.
I’ve had one case with a person who manipulated her way into my studio, saying that their parents wanted to buy my art - I gave this person an afternoon of my time and (stupidly) the high-res images and price list. A year later I saw a piece of my work on instagram - but it wasn’t mine. The person who came to my studio had gone back to her home country and had a friend make a number of copies of my work, many of which had a personal attachment and memories for me. I felt violated and betrayed. The pieces were being shown in her father's shop and much worse they showed them in trade fairs in Las Vegas and Shanghai. Unfortunately, she's still doing it. The morals of some, are obviously lower, and I see so many beaten faces - it's pretty sad. I've had many good people cry on me when I go to some of these fairs as they are jaded. But in truth it has been a good way to split the good from the bad in that industry. Which I must point out, isn't my industry.
There was another person that followed all my galleries and contacts - even used wording similar to mine - and many people went to see them expecting to meet me. Recently they made a portrait of one of the pieces I did, the difference being I had done so officially with the estate of the subject and in collaboration with them. I'd have six times more work had all I done is rip others' work off the internet for 15 years. I don’t support things and/or people who I don't believe in. People can copy what I have done, but not what I will do. In many ways it helped me to push my work and my craft.
The last text you sent or received?
I just looked...Jenny Bevan - She’s won two oscars! Amazing person…
Favourite Instagram accounts to follow?
I don’t go on so much to be honest, I get messages in there but I don't really have time to really look at posts. Sometimes I post myself and just get away. You're always there though (@kellouhar) and seriously you work your ass off to make so much content. I can imagine that behind the scenes there is a big effort and skill to create. I can go weeks without posting! When I go quiet people message asking if i'm ok, and I'm like…if you see me posting everyday, that's when you should ask if I’m ok! What I like to see on Instagram is art. There are the artists I mentioned before and here’s a few more; @Kjcardigan @petercombe_art @markevans.studio @christianjfaur @vikmuniz
“It is very much a labour of love. The biggest secret ingredient will always be me and my mind. The rest is just scissors, jeans and glue, working from all my own ideas and photography.”
IAN BERRY ARTIST
You have a free day to do anything, what do you do?
The sad part of being an artist is that you don't really switch off. I know this is going to sound terribly boring but my 'hobby' has turned into my life. Of course I love to go and look at art, but I also enjoy history and travel.
When I travel I fit in a dozen things a day and try not to waste a minute. I can fit in sights, meetings and always plan to meet a local on the night or find the best speakeasy. Old Fashioned, please. I also watch / listen to Netflix while I work. I could tell you what I was watching if you point to a piece in my art!
Do you prefer Coffee or tea?
Coffee. Having lived in for Sweden six years I got used to strong, good coffee. I rarely let an English person make me one though!
Favourite pizza?
The Crate Brewery in Hackney Wick have several of them but the Sweet Potato, Stilton and Walnut is the best. No the khasmiri Dahl. Hang on, the Sage and Truffle. Ok, let’s get all of them and share.
How many languages do you speak?
Speak well? zero
Speak? Yorkshire, some English and some Swedish. I can get by for a few minutes with them thinking I'm fluent. Another cliche but I find art and denim is pretty international and I do feel better hiding behind my work. I spent many years at the beginning hiding behind the denimu name as I didn't want anyone to know it was me. I always feel pretty ashamed at how we English don't speak other languages and wonder if it doesn't fully open part of our minds and thoughts. I feel so uncomfortable when someone apologises for their English, when we hardly know how to say thank you in their language.
What’s the first thing you do when you wake up?
The thing you're not supposed to, check the phone and see who has got in touch from the places that were awake when I was sleeping. Then let that distract my plans for the day I'd planned. In many ways I wish I was 80 now having lived in previous decades, away from all that. But of course there are many positives to it as well.
What jeans are you wearing right now?
Atelier de Nimes jeans (he’s brought jeans production back to Nimes) and a Blackhorse Lane jacket (They've brought it to London).
How many jeans do you own? How many do you actually wear?
Own…2 to 2,500 possibly.
How many do I actually wear? Not many.
I end up wearing the same for six months, with them just becoming comfortable. Of course I spend many a day in the studio and wear my glue covered pants. Another reason why my jeans evolution is slow, as I hardly wear them! I'm not the Swiss Jean Freak!
What time of day do you work best? When are the creative juices flowing? I’m a PM kinda creator myself...
Likewise, I'm a night owl. I seem to work best on LA time. I wake up in the night, but I do have an afternoon nap after lunch, twenty mins. I'm a slow starter in the day, but after that snooze I feel awake and alert.
Breakfast of champions?
I'm a breakfast man, that’s for sure. So a whole smorgasbord of food. In fact yes, a Swedish Smorgasbord. I remember the first time I had one. All the yogurts, pate, meatballs, pancakes and pickled herring. . Breakfast did become an effort though, it's not Crunchy Nut with milk and out the door!
Favourite city?
I'm lucky enough to have lived in some of the most amazing cities and spend a lot of time in many others. I lived in Sydney for a while and now of course London, but it’s New York that is the place that I feel most alive and full of energy. I'm much more a city person - I love the energy and layers to them.
If you had to choose....Crisps or chocolate?
I try not to eat them but I'm much more savoury than sweet, so it would have to be crisps. Doritos and hummus. It's actually my hangover cure.
Best coffee table book?
Ahem,
Ian Berry
Denim on Denim.
Best hotel you’ve ever stayed in?
It’s strange, I find the better the hotel, the less I sleep in it! I remember only having two hours sleep in the amazing Conservatorium in Amsterdam, the Hotel Palacio Del Retiro in Madrid always felt like home and the Roosevelt in LA.
When are you starting my denim portrait? (Hint, hint!)
We need to do a shoot first! ha!
What’s next for Ian Berry?
It's going to be a busy couple of years with some solo museum shows around Europe; Germany, Holland, Sweden, Yorkshire and some more TBC (maybe beyond Europe).
I never tell anyone what I'm doing until I've done it. It's probably the worst thing to say to you as a social media expert…I'm always like “hey guys last week I did this, it's the last day it's open today”! But, you can follow @ianberry.art and I will be revealing the names and dates of the shows when I can.