BEST OF BLUE: A DENIM DAY AT THE WESTMINSTER MENSWEAR ARCHIVE!
Having always loved vintage clothing from a young age and always bought it for my wardrobe or archive, looking at and shopping for vintage is one of my favourite past times. Since working for H&M, I have bought vintage from all over the world and built the in-house archive which design teams use for new collections. I love that each vintage piece is distinct, has unique wear and tells a different story!
So, when I got invited to visit the University of Westminster Menswear Archive, I jumped at the chance. The archive is the first of its kind; it is solely focused on menswear and is open to the public! With over 2,000 garments including both designer and ‘uniform’, it is full to the brim of amazing pieces. Everything from Alexander McQueen to Craig Green and French workwear to military camouflage!
The creators of the archive are Professor Andrew Groves and Dr Danielle Sprecher. Coming from both fashion and curatorial backgrounds, the pair have spearheaded the creation of something refreshingly new. They encourage all to visit, are constantly cataloguing the archives and always tracking down new garments to capture their history.
While the archive is full of amazing vintage pieces, I was drawn to the denim (obviously!) and all the amazing shades of blue. But with so many incredible pieces it was hard to choose a favourite! So Andrew and I decided to pick some of our favourite pieces to share with you, along with a short explanation as to why we love them. So if you’d like to see some amazing and unique denim, keep reading!
It was amazing to visit the archive and browse their collection, which reignited my love of vintage and designer pieces. You can find out more about the archive via their website here and Instagram here,as well as visit their exhibition Invisible Men in London this November!
The largest-ever exhibition devoted to menswear.
INVISIBLE MEN EXHIBITION / 25TH OCTOBER - 24TH NOVEMBER 2019.
ADMISSION / FREE
ADDRESS / AMBIKA P3, UNIVERSITY OF WESTMINSTER, MARYLEBONE, LONDON, NW1 5LS
WEB / INVISIBLE MEN EXHIBITION
INSTAGRAM / MENSWEAR ARCHIVE
Before delving into the archive, we sat down with Andrew to get his thoughts on denim and its impact on fashion over the years. In addition to teaching at Westminster and building the Menswear Archive, Andrew worked with Alexander McQueen for many years. His knowledge of fashion and the industry is amazing! Here’s what he had to say about denim;
'“The beauty of denim is that everyone wears it, and everyone has an opinion on it. It can be basic mass-produced Lee or Levis or it can the rarest Japanese denim or a designer version from the couture salons or Paris or Italy. No other garment is so widely worn that everyone has an opinion on stitch, colour, wear, fit, turn-ups, you name it!
Within the archive we both designer denim garments and utilitarian denim that are part of working uniforms or workwear. Whether it originates from all of it can inform students and researchers to create new design outcomes. I started the archive in part because students were looking at Helmut Lang denim online and I knew they wouldn’t understand what made it so amazing in the 90s unless they saw the real garment. From that the idea of building a garment archive to allow them to learn from the very best designers was born. 1700 garments later and we are able to show them examples from a huge range of designers.”
POLO BY RALPH LAUREN DENIM BLAZER C.1978
The Item:
Ralph Lauren Polo single breasted denim blazer with two button front fastening (1978)
Andrew says:
Launched in 1967 Polo was Ralph Lauren’s sportswear and tailored clothing brand. I love this tailored jacket, it feels like the tipping point, where Polo was about to become the brand that we know and love, but was trying to be less formal, and more preppy. The internal label reads: 'Marshall Field & Company YOUNG CHICAGOAN THE STORE FOR MEN'
Kelly says:
Merging a classic cut single breasted blazer with modern denim is one of Ralph Lauren’s charming and signature looks. A modern spin on a classic preppy style and a wardrobe staple. I like the mix of modern & classic in this tailored piece from one of the best brands to ever do denim!
CRAIG GREEN HAND PAINTED CANVAS JACKET A/W 2014
The item:
Craig Green 100% canvas cotton hand painted jacket using fabric pens and inks. Made in the UK (2014)
Andrew says:
This canvas jacket has been hand painted using fabric pens and inks. One of our students was interning with Craig and made a number of these, and the process was extremely complicated and long winded. It’s a personal favourite as its from a time when Green was emerging, and the garments were still being produced mainly in the studio, so they have the quality of being individual and different that comes from small scale production.
Kelly says:
Craig green is one of the most innovative menswear designers of today. What I love about this AW14 jacket is the conceptual process and the wearability. Hand painted with intricate details to imitate Persian rugs and tapestries creates a Kaleidoscope effect. So cool!
LEVI’S ENGINEERED DENIM TRENCH COAT
The Item:
Levi's Engineered Jeans twisted full-length coat with detachable lining (around 2000)
Andrew says:
What I particularly like about this example is that it is clearly well worn and well-loved. Someone obviously wore this every day and the fact that the lining is removable means I like to think they dressed it up dressed it down and this garment became central to their clothing identity.
Kelly says:
In 1999 the Levis engineered jeans were one of the most progressive designs. I remember the TV commercials being a prominent part of my youth. Now an iconic piece and still as relevant today as it was then. I love this piece for its fun approach to design and individual look! I still collect these now!
STONE ISLAND S/S 1984 DOUBLE BREASTED DENIM JACKET
The Item:
Stone Island Marina double breasted denim blazer with rubber buttons and buttonholes (mid-1980’s).
Andrew says:
Two years into the Stone Island brand and this denim jacket from the Marina line has some of the iconic elements that we recognise as part of the Stone Island brand. The compass badge moved around the garment in the early years, sometimes even appearing on the other sleeve. This has fantastic rubber moulded buttons and buttonholes that are appropriate for the overall sailing atmosphere.
Kelly says:
I really like this classic nautical piece from Stone Island, with great fading and rubber buttons created from a mould. Known for their association with casual and football culture, Stone Island is so much more than terrace wear. With amazing fabrics and great styling, this is denim done well by an giant of Italian style!
STONEWASHED UMBRO SPORTS TOP 1990’S
The item:
Oversized blue Umbro football top made in a stonewashed drill with a crew neck rib knit collar and folded rib cuffs (1990’s)
Andrew says:
As worn by Liam Gallagher at Oasis’ Maine Road gig 27 April 1996. This has become an iconic garment from Manchester based sports firm Umbo, who started in Wilmslow back in 1924, and have had a long connection with Manchester City. Of all the garments on our Instagram feed this is the one we are asked to sell the most! We have to remind people were an archive not a shop.
Kelly says:
This super retro piece from the 90’s unexpectedly gained cult fashion status when Liam Gallagher wore one when Oasis played at Manchester City’s Maine Road football stadium in 1996. It reminds me of so many 90’s movements from Grunge to lad culture. It’s even reminiscent of high school PE uniforms!
MOSCHINO TYPOGRAPHIC PRINT JEANS
The item:
1990s Moschino typographic print jeans
Andrew says:
Moschino’s use of graphics, typeface and print revolutionised denim in the 1990s and managed to make them both special and wearable enough for every day. Some night sit felt like half the club was wearing Moschino back in the 90s. Again, they have really thought of how to get the design into the denim while being true to its materiality, so they still feel authentic.
Kelly says:
These Moschino print jeans are still just as relevant today and can be seen in recent catwalk collections. They have a great all-over print on a classic jean cut. The brand are known for using quirky prints and kitsch styling, which makes this a great iconic piece of 90’s denim!
LEVI’S X JEAN PAUL GAULTIER SELVEDGE DENIM TRUCKER JACKET
The item:
Levi's Jean Paul Gaultier selvedge denim ‘Type III’ Trucker Jacket.
Andrew says:
I love the way that Gaultier’s subversion of the classic Levi’s jacket is also in keeping with their heritage. He hasn’t tried to overdesign it or add details for the sake of it. The use of the selvedge respects the heritage of the woven cloth as integral to the design process.
Kelly says:
I love this Gauiter x Levi’s collaboration as they’ve taken the classic Trucker Jacket and given it a fashion twist! The red contrast stitching really ‘pops’ on the dark denim and even includes some selvedge detailing. It’s a cult classic and demonstrates the best of both brands!
LEVI’S RED DENIM BLAZER
The item:
Levis RED Denim Blazer Jacket (2004)
Andrew says:
Within the archive there are so many garments from Levi’s that show their drive for innovation, much more so than any other denim company. This jacket is a case in point. It feels like the designers have really questioned what does a denim jacket mean, how does it function, what do we expect of it? This reflective approach to design has enabled them to rethink a design classic and to envision it for the 21st century.
Kelly says:
I’m still searching for this piece and wish it was in my own closet! I love everything about the RED collection as it is so abstract and outside the box. Any pieces from the collection are rare and hard to find these days, I’m always on the look out when I’m shopping vintage or secondhand. I love crazy denim and this is one of the best!
VINTAGE WRANGLER BLUE BELL DENIM JACKET
The item:
Wrangler Blue Bell Denim Jacket (1950-1965)
Andrew says:
Personally, I’m not really a fan of Wrangler denim, I think you have to make a choice with denim, much like you either are Adidas or Nike. Having said that this is a great example to have in the archive as it has lots of period details that if we were redesigning it for today, we would change or adapt. For example, I would get rid of the zip and put in studs. I would also lower the top pockets. But the language of denim is so persuasive that sometimes its almost impossible to notice the design as we have become so used to these garments.
Kelly says:
Wrangler have firmly earned their place amongst the ‘big three’ of denim for their classic western wear and rugged denim over the years. This vintage Wrangler jacket is an iconic and recognizable style of the brand and has a definite cowboy vibe! I like the sewn rivets and zip front which makes for a unique design. It also has some great fading which makes it a super piece of vintage denim!
DEADSTOCK LEE ‘RIDERS’ DENIM JEANS WITH POCKET FLASH
The item:
Lee Riders deadstock unwashed denim Jeans
Andrew says:
A great pair of jeans that are deadstock with a fantastic card label that states: 'Union Made Lee Riders, Authentic cowboy pants, 100% cotton, 13 3/4 OZ. Denim (square yard weight) Zipper Fly, Sanforized, Shrinkage not more than 1%, buy your exact size, in regular or slim models, Lee Guarantee, If Lee riders are not the best fitting and longest wearing you have ever worn, you may have a new pair FREE’
Kelly says:
Like Wrangler, Lee have always had a strong branding and identity as a leading denim brand. They’ve continued to reference their western wear roots and Kansas home through their hang tags and pocket flashers over the years. The reference to getting a pair free is reminiscent of another time when denim brands were in completion and fighting for the top spot. I wonder if Lee would still honour this guarantee now! This pair of Riders are deadstock and unworn, making them a great denim time capsule.